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How to Build a Ceramic Tile Steam Shower

	All work by: Harry Dunbar Here's what I started with. As you can see the framing must be beefed up to support backerboard and tile. Tile and Materials supplied by: Tilemaster Back to Harry's Shower Gallery Back to Home Page
	I've added some 2"x4"s to support and straighten the existing structure of the steamroom.
	I've also added frames for the 2 shower benches.
	I laminated 3/4" plywood which have been cut to create an arch in the ceiling. Over these fabricated joists I've installed 1" strapping to support 1/4" HardiBacker Board which will be glued and screwed onto the strapping. Steamroom ceilings must always have a positive slope. In this case I curved the ceiling to achieve the same results.
	After the 2 lights are installed I've completed the strapping for the steamroom shower ceiling.
	I've installed 1" thick Wedi backer-board for all areas inside the shower. The benches have 3/4" plywood on the top seat and 1" Wedi on the front of the seat. There is 1/4" HardiBacker set into mortar and screwed onto the 3/4" plywood seat.
	Over top the Hardibacker I've installed Kerdi waterproof membrane making sure to overlap 4 or 5 inches over the Wedi backerboard. The copper pipe shown on the back wall is for the "Steam Head", which is the outlet bringing steam into the room produced by a steam generator. All showers should be waterproof, but a steam shower MUST be vapor-proof with no exception.
	After the Hardibacker is glued and screwed onto the ceiling ... all corners and joins are taped and mudded.
	Kerdi has been installed over my sloped mortar bed and over top the curb.
	The ceiling has been primed before applying liquid waterproof membrane. Whatever liquid waterproofing you decide to use, it must be acceptable as a vapour proof barrier when used in a steam shower.
	I've applied my first coat of liquid waterproof membrane. A second coat must be applied before it can be rated for a steamroom. I've used Kiesel Okamul DF for my waterproof membrane.
	This steam shower construction is in a basement and there would have been a lot of work and extra cost to create access for a Kerdi drain so instead I've left the basic drain that my customer installed. This photo shows a fresh application of primer prior to liquid waterproofing.
	Liquid waterproofing has been applied. There will still need to be a waterproof seal between this surface and the drain insert before it is completely waterproof.
	This photo gives you a perspective of the thickness of the mortar bed in relation to the drain assembly.
	Seal around ALL openings and fixtures.
	Everything in the shower is sealed and waterproofed and ready for tile. I've installed the floor tile first.
	Notice how I've sealed around each light fixture. I used the same waterproof caulking recommended for sealing Wedi backerboard.
	After the 2 side walls are tiled, you'll need to confirm ceiling surface distance between the 2 walls. The best way to do this is to use tape and run it between the 2 points being measured.
	Make a mark tight to the wall tile at a 90 degree angle to the ceiling surface. Do this at the other end as well. The tape can then be removed and measured so that you can figure out the lay-out for the ceiling tile.
	The tape holds the metal and tile snug to one another until the mortar hardens.
	Apply enough caulking to seal the threads and under the drain.
	You can add the mortar as I did here, or apply it after the drain is set to its proper height.
	Water has only one option for leaving this shower. Through the top.
	I've installed Schluter Rondec for a corner trim along the edge of the shower bench. It is a rounded profile which allows a smooth and neat transition.