I built a waterproof, sloped mortar bed to support the stone shown in these photos.
I'd like to thank my buddy Ron Holten for coming in on short notice to help me finish while I left for a few days holidays. He even hand grinded all the edges to a nice, smooth (bullnose) finished edge which showed he didn't mind going the extra mile. It's the finishing touches which matter to the eye and is noticed by the homeowner.
Ron recently had some of his work featured on "Holmes on Homes" television show.
Here's How It Came Together. By: Harry Dunbar
First thing I had to do was create a sloped mortar bed slab to repair the existing surface.
I used a polymer modified thinset mortar as a "slurry" to bond the deck-mud to the old patio slab.
My son (Mike) is mixing sand and portland cement using a latex additive instead of water. This will allow the mortar bed to handle higher stresses caused by exterior conditions.
The mortar bed is complete.
After 3 or 4 days of curing, I installed Ditra ... a waterproof, crack isolation membrane.
Along all the edges I applied a waterproof, exterior caulking to prevent moisture from penetrating into the mortar bed.
Along the outside edges and face of the deck I installed Kerdi ... a waterproof membrane. I used unmodified thinset mortar to bond to the Ditra and modified for the vertical surfaces.
In order to even out the increased rise of the deck, I have to build up the top 2 steps using the same process as for the deck.
Using mortar beds on the top 2 steps accommodated the drastic height difference caused by the mortar bed on the patio.
Not shown here, the entire treads and risers were waterproofed using Kerdi membrane before setting the stone.
After the tile was set it was washed .... allowed to completely dry then sealed. It was then grouted, washed and allowed to cure for 12 or so days .... then sealed twice more.